Today was the time to maintain the surroundings of my land. For that I preferred to use my FS 86 STIHL brushcutter ( year of production 1989 ) rather than the CB 38 edger.
One detail surprised me immediately after starting the engine is that the head was idling jerkily, with jerks that went up to the handlebars ... weird ... the machine however correctly performed its job, it took its turns well and the vibrations and other jerks disappeared with acceleration.
I am the only user of this machine for which I perform regular maintenance, and only with a wire head ( square section 2.4 mm ). It is true that I have already found myself stuck in particular in the fence, but from there to break the clutch!
At the end of the work I decided to take a closer look. Engine stopped, I began to manually turn my head in both directions to see what it was. In the normal direction of rotation, no real worries, the rotation seems free to me, but in the opposite direction, important points of blockage appear from time to time!
Once is not customary, when we take the machines out of the winter, we sometimes encounter problems.
This is what happened recently, I noticed a slight fuel leak that came from time to time from who knows where at the carburetor ...
In fact the hoses had become porous and were leaking at the level of the carburettors. Of course impossible to find these in the trade and even less on the net.
The engine of this machine looks like one of a Homelite type F2020 for which I was able to download the exploded views ( see my previous article ) with the references of the parts.
If the references of the hoses no longer pass even on the Homelite site, on the other hand we can still find the tank fully equipped, and that on a Parisian site.
Luck was with me that day, the new tank has exactly the same fixing points as the original one, and therefore adapts perfectly to the machine. It also has a deflector screen positioned just under the exhaust, which the old one did not have.
Those interested can note the reference for a possible order from ADEPEM :
To carry out this repair, you must first remove the rear flange which blocks the cylinder. This, making a fiber gasket, normally ensures its tightness.
I say normally because on mine it has already been destroyed for several years, and in 2007 I had replaced it with a silicone seal ( AUTOJOINT from Loctite ) which held up very well.
I therefore repeated this operation when reassembling the new tank, but this time with a blue seal from BARDAHL. The result is the same, difficult to apply correctly, but it works.
Good repair to you!
In this little tutorial, I explain the method I used to perform the engine oil change on a 1994 Honda model HRF464SE self-propelled mower, equipped with the Honda GXV120 engine engine..
For information, this is an air-cooled 120cm3 OHV single-cylinder single-cylinder petrol engine ( overhead valve engine ), developing a power of 2.9 kW or 4 hp. The starting is done using a hand starter, the ignition is electronic. The oil capacity is 0.60 liters. It works with SP95 gasoline, and has no blade brake or other safety. The only controls available are throttle control and traction control. The cutting height is adjusted using 2 levers, allowing separate adjustment of each pair of wheels, in 5 possible notches.
It is an excellent machine, robust and reliable, bought 4650Frs ( a little over 700 € ... ) in June 1994 at a Honda dealer.
The problem on this machine is the accessibility of the oil drain plug, because it is arranged in such a way that on the one hand, it is impossible to unscrew it completely, and on the other hand the oil will spill over the frame during the flow. For this second point, there is little choice, apart from the total extraction engine ... Without going that far, I still loose about 2 centimeters 3 bolts ( socket Ø13) retaining the engine to the frame, so as to be able to lift it slightly, this then allowing the release of the drain plug ( Ø10 socket to be preferred to a wrench ) located at the foot of the gauge. The oil will thus flow along a channel apparently provided for this purpose ...To collect the used oil, simply place a container of about 35cm in diameter below the machine, and voila! For my part, I did not encounter any problem at this level, I actually used the pit of my garagein which I planned a sliding wooden tray, receiving my basins and other utensils for the emptying!
To gain access to these 3 fixing bolts, it is necessary to remove the cutting blade ( Ø14 socket ), as well as the blade holder, to which the transmission belt is also connected. It will be preferable to remove the cover plate from the belt ( accessible from above and located between the engine and the rear of the frame ), fixed using 2 cruciform screws. This will greatly help in handling the belt, and checking it ...
You can release the blade holder downwards by using a small hammer, and by tapping lightly in the transverse direction of the axis. This operation releases it, which is often affected by corrosion in this area ... Once removed, be sure to clean the splines of the shaft as well as those of the blade holder.
In the event of low ambient temperature, run the engine for a few minutes to warm up and thin the oil, the draining will be faster. During the flow, take the opportunity to disassemble the launcher, in order to better check the condition of the cord, but also of the locking lever( plastic ) and its return spring. Also disassemble the spark plug (original type NGK BPR5ES), and after cleaning, check the correct spacing of its electrode, which must be between 0.6-0.7mm( manufacturer's indication ).
Once the oil change is complete, fill it with Special 4 Stroke Motoculture oil..
Problem on the chassis :
It may happen that the handlebar mounting platescrack at the bolts. This has happened to me before, and in this case it is necessary to replace the defective parts.
Preparation for storage *:
- If the engine has been running, wait for it to cool for at least half an hour before cleaning it. Clean all exterior surfaces, touch up paint as necessary, and cover areas that may be oxidized with a thin layer of oil.
- When stored, fuel oxidizes and deteriorates. Old fuel can cause difficult starting and gum deposits that can clog the fuel system.
To avoid problems due to fuel deterioration, drain the fuel tank and carburetor.
- Position the assembly so that the motor is level. Tilting the engine can cause oil or fuel to leak.
Draining the fuel tank and carburetor *:
- Disconnect the fuel line to the engine and drain the tank into a container approved for fuel. If the tank is equipped with a valve, turn the fuel valve to the OPEN or ON position to allow draining.
When the drain is complete, reconnect the fuel line and turn the valve to the OFF position .
- Loosen the carburetor drain screw and drain the carburetor into a container approved for fuel. When the drain is complete, tighten the carburetor drain screw.
To help you in finding spare parts, here are some useful files to download in PDF format:
- GXV120 HONDA Engine Owner's Manual
- HONDA GXV120 Engine Maintenance Chart
- GXV120 HONDA Engine Manufacturer Specifications
- GXV120 HONDA engine diagram
To order spare parts, here is the address of a website from which I have already purchased: http://www.jardimat-motoculture.com
I bought this device from Bricomarché in April 1995 for I believe 800Frs ( a little over 120 € ... ), and the address on the back of the user manual states the USA. I first looked for any information on the net and, after spending some time behind my keyboard, it is clear that they are simply non-existent! At the same time, I wasn't expecting anything else, considering that my machine's brand hardly exists.
So if no supplier, no spare parts either.
Anxious to keep it in perfect working order because it is very practical to use, I set to work once again.
This machine has a particularity: it does not have the 2 traditional handles that can be found on a brush cutter. For its handling, there is only an axial handle located just behind the launcher's cage, the throttle located below that can be manipulated with the index finger, and a handle in the form of an arch located a little more far on the driveshaft.
Model identification :
Charlotte ... charlotte ... is this not the name of a potato? Let's continue ... We can read one thing, The very important thing on this plate is its origin from the USA.
At a time when almost everything comes from China, it is rather reassuring !!!
It is therefore this plate that will have to be removed, in order to check the condition of the fiber gasket.
First of all, I wanted to replace this seal with one of my own making, but the technical constraints of the material, its thickness and its shape soon made my good will! I ended up going with blue joint compound, more practical to implement, and just as effective, since it is widely used in the automotive world! I still give you the dimensional drawing of the original seal, which was distorted in its thickness in places, deformations not visible on the photo.
I carried out this repair in November 2007, and today in April 2009, no more traces of oil, a clear sign that my new seal is holding up.
But where can this oil come from, you will tell me? Well, if we consider that this engine is of the 2-stroke type, and that it uses a mixture of SP95 gasolinedosed at 4% of synthetic oil " Special Motoculture engine 2T", also taking into account that the tank has a capacity of 600ml, that gives us a quantity of oil of 24ml. A part of course is burned with gasoline, but there is enough left for the lubrication of the crankshaft.
Motor shaft :
With the wire head removed from the machine, the drive axis then looks like the following photo:
On the other hand, the head is fixed using a plastic wheel ( no. 9 on this documentation) from which the bolt comes out very often, with the risk of losing it in the grass ... This is an American 5/16 "(7.94mm) diameter steel bolt( no screw on the right ... ) whose thread length measures 12 mm, with 8½ threads for an approximate diameter of 8 mm. The hexagonal head of the bolt corresponds to a Ø 13 mm wrench / socket. Note that this bolt has no marking, which makes it more difficult to examine.
If I refer to this conversion table and after having carefully measured it using my caliper, this bolt would therefore have the following characteristics:
|Nominal diameter||UNC Un ified Screw Thread - C oarse Series|
This engine has never disappointed me, it still starts as well and as easily as when it started.
The disadvantage of this small machine: it does not have a clutch between the engine output and the transmission shaft. It therefore sometimes happens that the engine stalls during use, especially during the automatic unwinding of the line head (original equipment! )
I offer you for free download the multilingual user manual of this machine, as well as several links leading to an exploded view of the equivalent machine although more recent (a Homelite F2015, the cutting parts and various accessories are almost identical to those mounted on the CB38) :
[Edit of May 3, 2016] :
The link to the HOMELITE website ...
So I carried out new ( long ... ) research on the Internet, and I was still able to find a match ( perhaps partial, I did not check everything ... ) with a Homelite F2020 or UT-20788.
It is understood that I could not be held responsible in any way for any error in the reference of a spare part.
(Japanese origin - manufactured in 1988)
For this you need to make an extractor, which you will attach to the flywheel in order to immobilize it. I offer you a listed photo of the tool that I thus produced:
To make this tool, I used a mild steel bar with a section of 20mm and a thickness of 4mm, minimum length of 145mm. Measure and mark on your bar a first line 25mm from the edge, then the second at 16.5mm, the third again at 16.5mm, and finally the last 80mm further.
Draw a line down the center of the bar along its length. This gives you your drilling axes.
The first (the one 25mm from the edge ... ) will be drilled at 6mm, the second at 5mm and tapped at 6-100, the third at 6mm and the last at 4mm.
To use the tool, it is not necessary to remove the 2 locking levers ( not visible here ... ) of the launcher. It is just more convenient to insert the socket on the flywheel retaining nut.
Install the completed tool on the flywheel, then turn the machine over and clamp the tool in a vise. Using a pin punch ( 6-7mm minimum ... ), strike a small sharp blow transversely to the clutch ( see photo). Attention, this is an English step, that is to say that the tightening direction is the reverse of that of clockwise! Unscrew the part, and pay attention to the needle cage bearing, take the opportunity to check that it is still in good condition ... When you reassemble the clutch, also tighten it using the pin punch.
Engine oil :
But where can this oil come from, you will tell me? Well, if we consider that this engine is of the 2-stroke type, and that it uses a mixture of SP95 gasoline dosed at 4% of synthetic oil " Special Motoculture engine 2T", also taking into account that the tank has a capacity of 600ml, that gives us a quantity of oil of 24ml. A part of course is burned with gasoline, but there is enough left for the lubrication of the crankshaft.
Chain oil :
For this oil, please, no frying oil! only use oil intended for this purpose, the name " Chainsaw chain oil"being clearly indicated on the cans ( which can be found in 2L and 5L ) in all DIY stores.
search When I was looking for spare parts, I had a bit of trouble because the Yvan Béal group stopped selling this machine. However, I managed to find the address of a workshop that could provide me with it. If this is also your case, you must send your request by email preferably to the following address:
2 avenue Roger Salengro
It goes without saying that to achieve them, its complete disassembly was necessary.
It is not inaccessible, but it requires a minimum of tools and attention.
Before reading the following, please know that I can in no way be held responsible for any damage that your equipment may suffer during or / and after this type of intervention.
View after removing the handle and the housing :
The fuel tank :
The pipe with its strainer :
This done, we can now remove the steering wheel. Be careful, it is a keyed axis, and a small 'plop' will occur during detachment. A trained eye will have noticed the 2 marks on the field of the steering wheel: which I suppose to be notches made in the factory for balancing purposes.
The carburetor :
Be careful when removing this very important part which serves as a load for the engine! I had the clumsiness of not paying too much attention to it, and I realized afterwards that it was possible to make a mistake during reassembly ( look closely at the photo, especially the baffles ... ). Not too bad in my case since the engine is definitely out of order, but on your machine, it is better to be careful!
We can also distinguish the rubber connection serving as a flexible interface between the carburetor and the cylinder block.
Here, it is true that we do not see much ... it is after that it becomes clearer ...
In spite of everything, I hope that these few pages will be useful to you, either to free you at first from what the dismantling of your machine can represent, whether in terms of technical knowledge or tools, or to directly repair it. and maintain it.